Unexpected Sources of Inspiration and Truth
You know how sometimes inspiration to do something comes from the most unexpected sources? I have certainly experienced that.
Several years after launching my career in researching consumer products ingredients, I met a non-toxic living consultant who said something that made me realize that I had not yet done any research into permanent hair dyes. She was extremely excited about her visit to a hair salon, and was especially enthused about the fact that the hair color they had used on her was organic. When I asked her what made it organic, she simply said, “It just is!” This sparked my interest, and later my outrage.
Upon returning home, I studied every ingredient of that so-called organic hair color, called Organic Color Systems. My suspicion was confirmed — there is no such thing as permanent organic hair color, and here is why.
To receive an organic certification, a product must be comprised of 95% agricultural ingredients. Permanent hair colors are made with such ingredients as hair shaft openers, oxidative dyes, emulsifiers, surfactants, and silicones; these ingredients simply are not agricultural. Add fragrance to this list and you will get a fuller picture of the chemical content of a hair color, even if it is a natural fragrance.
In other words, permanent hair colors cannot be certified as “organic.” However, many manufacturers promote their hair dyes as “organic,” “natural” or “naturally derived,” among other marketing claims. Feel free to read my reviews of some of these brands, such as Natulique, Organic Way (OWAY), Aveda, and Tints of Nature. How can manufacturers make these claims?
Well, they seem to be emphasizing the fact that they add some plant extracts and proteins to their products. But can you really sweeten a barrel of pickle juice with a teaspoonful of honey? In all my years of research, never once have I found any evidence supporting the idea that plant extracts can offset the risks of an allergic reaction to a hair dye or even preserve their beneficial properties when they come in contact with corrosive and highly alkaline chemicals present in hair dyes.
What are these chemicals?
You may have heard about ammonia. You may have even been led to believe that an ammonia-free permanent hair color is the answer to your search for a safe permanent hair color. Listen, for a permanent hair color to work, the outer layer of your hair must be opened and stripped of its natural color. Then, oxidative hair dye is pushed inside the hair where it develops the desired lasting color. Can these chemical processes take place without actual chemicals?
My point is, when a permanent hair color is ammonia-free, the question to ask is what chemical is used instead. A common substitute is ethanolamine. Is it a safer alternative to ammonia? The short answer, in my opinion, is “no.” You can read all about this in my post about ammonia-free hair color brands.
Plus, there are chemicals that are extreme sensitizers. Have you heard about sensitization? Simply put, sensitization is a reaction that your body may develop over a period of repeated exposure to a certain ingredient in a product. In other words, you may have no reaction to a hair color after a couple of uses, but then suddenly you have an allergic reaction that bewilders you because you have not used anything new. Some extreme sensitizers are toluene-2,5-diamine sulfate (TDS) and p-phenylenediamine (PPD).
And speaking of allergic reactions …
Many people associate allergies with just redness of skin. However, allergic reactions include more severe signs, such as shortness of breath and even anaphylactic shock. Have you heard about Madison Reed Hair Dye? Check out my review of this hair color and the comments of those people who allege they have suffered injuries from a permanent hair color. It may also be one of the reasons for hair loss. (Read my post about eight overlooked hair loss causes to learn about other seven causes of hair thinning.) On top of that, it has been reported that permanent hair colors increase the risk of cancer by 20%. What causes all that?
In addition to the chemicals mentioned above, there are ingredients in hair coloring products that directly participate in changing the color of the hair. The FDA calls them color additives. The color additives that are not made from plants or minerals are referred to by the FDA as coal-tar dyes.
The reason they are called coal-tar dyes is that originally coloring materials were by-products of the coal industry. Now, as the FDA states, they are made from petroleum and used in permanent, semi-permanent, and temporary hair dyes.
And here is the shocking truth.
The FDA website states that “color additives, with the exception of coal-tar hair dyes, need FDA approval before they’re permitted for use in cosmetics.”
Furthermore, the FDA website asserts that “FDA’s ability to take action against coal-tar hair dyes associated with safety concerns is limited by law. It is important to follow the directions on the label. It is also important to be an informed consumer and understand the risks.”
What does this mean? The FDA is warning consumers that there are dangerous products out there that the FDA is powerless to address because it lacks jurisdiction.
Although there are no safe permanent hair colors, I can help you choose a safer hair color based on scientific facts. Thus, in my effort to help you minimize the risk of sensitization, I have surveyed permanent hair color brands and rated them from the least likely to cause sensitization to the most likely. So far, I have found only one hair color brand that does not contain any extreme sensitizers. You can learn more about that in my Permanent Hair Color Rating List.
Over the years, while researching consumer goods and in writing my e-books for consumers, I have encountered a lot of deceptive information. However, I always emphasize that it is empowering to know the truth. It will help you make informed decisions, and, ultimately, take control of your health.